Essential Guide azelaic acid

In particular, the double bond, present on the oleic chain of the sunflower oil triglyceride, is, due to the oxidative action derived from H2O2 and compressed air, in presence of a catalyst, first epoxidated, hydroxylated and then cleaved to give tr i azelain and pelargonic acid. The obtained triazelain is finally hydrolysed to glycerine and azelaic acid. The obtained azelaic acid from this oxidative cleavage process is distilled and crystallized from water many times until a high purity ≥ 99 % (the highest purity on the market) active substance is obtained. Due to the adjusted purification process the final azelaic acid is characterized by a considerably low content (below the LOD of the most sensitive analysis methods available today) of heavy metals, residual solvents, residual pesticides and any other contaminant that could come from the used raw materials and process. This grade of azelaic acid, commercialised by Azeco Cosmeceuticals with the trade name Azepur99®, is then obtained with a new proprietary chemical process in agreement with the “green chemistry” principles (https://www.epa.gov/greenchemistry). It has 100% natural origin, genetic modified organism (GMO) free, and its sustainability also relates to the European origin of sunflower used for the oil extraction. In addition, the seeds are not coming from lands with high biodiversity value, high carbon stock, or peatland, which is according to the principles of the EU Directive 2018/2001 (RED II) on the promotion of the use of energy from renewable sources. According to the standard ISO16128 (Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients) A zepur 99® can be defined as a natural derived ingredient characterized by a 100% biobased carbon content. It is listed in COSMOS and then can be used in ECOCERT organic cosmetics products, which is vegan and Halal. It differentiates itself from other azelaic acids of natural origin present on the market by its high level of purity ≥ 99% . 2. Azepur99® 100% bio-based extremely pure Azelaic Acid for high-performing and sustainable cosmetic solutions Azelaic acid has been marketed for over 50 years for several uses, not only as an active ingredient in skin and hair care products but also as a plasticizer, lubricant ingredient for greases, the monomer for polyesters, and polyamides. Until a few years ago it was only industrially produced by oxidizing oleic acid with ozone to obtain dicarboxylic acid, azelaic acid, and monocarboxylic acid, pelargonic acid. Over the past few years, an alternative method for the synthesis of azelaic acid has been developed to overcome the large energy demands and to have a greener and more safe process by using different input chemicals and techniques. Therefore, a new process for the obtainment of a green sustainable, multi-functional active ingredient for cosmetics application has been developed in Europe. Azelaic acid is well-known to most dermatologists for its effective toxicological profile associated with efficacy and multitasking actions able to assure, together with a lightening action, also a healthier skin due to its additional antibacterial and antioxidant/lenitive actions. Nowadays, it is possible to formulate cosmetic products for both skin and hair care with a multi-action active obtained with a sustainable process, without using ozone, carried out with raw materials coming from European lands according to the European framework defining Safe and Sustainable by Design (SSbD) criteria for chemicals and materials. The figure below shows the chemical process steps to obtain sustainable azelaic acid without using ozone.

Phone : +31 475 20 60 70 • service@azeco-cosmeceuticals.com • www.azeco-cosmeceuticals.com

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