Azeco Cosmeceuticals

Haircare information file Azelaic acid - cosmetic grade

When quality and reliability come first

Azepur99®

High purity cosmetic grade of 100% biobased azelaic acid, obtained from high refined Sunflower oil of European origin, COSMOS approved.

Product Information Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring straight-chained saturated dicarboxylic acid naturally present in rye, wheat, and barley. According to its well known in the art ability to inhibite the action of 5-a-reductase type 1 enzym, mainly present in sebocytes but also in epider mal and follicular keratinocytes, dermal papilla cells and sweat glands, azelaic acid can be successfull used in hair care products. Azepur99® cosmetic-grade based products are the standard for cosmetic product quality and assurance of global supply. It is COS MOS approved.

General information

INCI NAME and Chemical Identification

AZELAIC ACID NONANEDIOIC ACID, CAS: 123-99-9

APPEARANCE

White to off-white micronised powder

ORIGIN

100% biobased product obtained from Sunflower Oil

Azepur99® is obtained by oxidative cleavage of the double bond of oleic chain of the triglyceride of the Sunflower oil, according to the following reaction: R = H, alkyl group

MANUFACTURING PROCESS

PURITY

99% minimum

SOLUBILITY

Soluble in glycols, glycerin and alcohols, easily dispersible in polar esters thanks to its unic particle size distribution

Azepur99® is self-preserving Azepur99® has an excellent safety profile

COSMETIC PROPERTIES

Azepur99® can be used in gel-emulsions and both low and high viscosity w/o and o/w emulsions, organo-gels and microemulsions

APPLICATIONS

RECOMMENDED DOSAGE

3 – 10 % by weight

Phone : +31 475 20 60 70 • service@azeco-cosmeceuticals.com • www.azeco-cosmeceuticals.com

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Azeco Cosmeceuticals — your preferred partner for the formulation of azelaic acid based hair care products Azeco Cosmeceuticals is the world’s leading supplier of cosmetic-grade azelaic acid. We earned this distinction by providing excep tional purity levels (unic product in the world market having this feature), consistently reliable supply, and outstanding technical and regulatory support. Our high purity azelaic acid is manufactured and handled according to the ISO 9001:2015 certification. It is obtained by using a continuous process 24 hours a day, seven days a week. This not only ensures ready availability, it also eliminates the batch-to-batch in consistencies often found in azelaic acid from other suppliers. Azelaic acid from Azeco Cosmeceuticals has European, 100% biobased and palm free origin and it is REACH (Registration Evaluation and Authorization of CHemicals) compliant. How Azepur99® works on hair Azelaic acid is a very potent 5-a-reductase inhibitor (type 1), the enzyme that converts testosterone into 5a-dihydrotestosterone, a major cause for alopecia areata and hair loss. Due to the relative absence of dihydrotestosterone, regression of the hair follicle will take place (the catagen stage) and subsequently hair generation will take place (the anagen stage). This enables the use of Aze pur99® for hair regrowth. Significant research is available to demonstrate the ability of azelaic acid to suppress the scalp’s production of DHT (a.k.a. Dihydrotestosterone, the hormone generally accepted as the primary cause of Male Pattern Balding, and as a frequent factor in Female Hair Loss. There is only a limited number of cosmetically allowed 5-a-reductase inhibitors available: saw palmetto, alfalfa, Japanese pagoda tree, red clover and the often praised Indian mulberry. The net effect of these botanicals is, however, limited and not at all compara ble to azelaic acid. According to Stamatiadis (see References) 5-a-reductase inhibition is already detectable at an azelaic acid concentration as low as 0,2 mMol/l. Inhibition is complete at a concentration of 3 mMol/l, equivalent to ~0,6 mg/l. Azelaic acid has also shown in the art interesting synergies with other physiologically active ingredients: Stamatiadis, using an in vitro assay with 1,2[3H]-testosterone as substrate, also studied the inhibitory effects of zinc sulfate (3-9 mMol/l) and Pyridoxine (vitamin B6) in combination with azelaic acid. His observations suggest the simultaneous use of the three products is really effective for the treatment of androgenic alopecia, being this indicative of a powerful synergy.

The powerful combination {azelaic acid + zinc sulphate + vitamin B6} for the treatment of androgenic alopecia is cosmetically suitable contrary to the steroidal and non-steroidal pharmaceutical preparations. In addition, azelaic acid has a superior toxicological profile.

The standard for azelaic acid in pharma & cosmetics

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Ideal for a variety of products

Azepur99® is ideal for use in a variety of personal care products (also COSMOS / ECOCERT approved) for hair, providing important benefits that consumers desire. Here’s a brief overview:

Benefits/Claims

Applications

Anti hair thinning agent Stimulating the life cycle of the hair It promotes the reactivation of silent follicles stimulating hair growth, promoting root regeneration, preventing hair loss Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties Keeping your scalp and hair follicles calm and functioning normally Able to combat oxidative stress, which can contribute to both balding and the premature aging of hair follicles Controlling hair loss and promoting new hair regrowth

Shampoos; hair care lotions for men and women, hair masks

Examples of skin care formulations based on Azepur99®

HC001 Detoxifying & Strengthening, DHT blocker Shampoo It contains ingredients that inhibit DHT production and reduce the production of Alpha 5 Reductase, which is an enzyme that converts testosterone to DHT. This shampoo works to reduce excess DHT on the scalp, as well as unclog blocked pores, cleanse the scalp, improve blood flow in the scalp, and give hair a healthier general outlook.

INCI Name

Trade name

% by weight

Function

A Aqua

Water

To 100

Solvent

Zinc Sulfate

0.10

Astringent, antimicrobial agent

Pyridoxine HCL

Vitamin B6 Hydrochloride

0.05

Hair conditioning and moisturizing

B Aqua (and) Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate

REWOPOL SB FA 30D [1]

15.00

Cleanser

Aqua (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Crodateric™ CAB30 [2]

10.00

Cleanser

Aqua (and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

Crodasinic LS30 [2]

8.00

Cleanser

Glyceryl Oleate

TEGIN® O V [1]

1.00

Emulsifier

Tripelargonin

Matrìlox CP601M [3]

2.00

Emollient

PEG-150 Distearate

REWOPAL® PEG 6000 DS A [1]

1.00

Emulsifier

Azepur99®

3.00

Active ingredient

Azelaic acid

Matrìlox CG001M [3]

2.00

Humectant

Glycerin

2.00

Humectant

Propanediol

Propylene Glycol

Sodium Hydroxide, 10% in water

q.s.

Neutralizer

C

Sodium Hydroxide (and) Aqua

D

Nipaguard SCP [4]

Preservative

Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitan Caprylate

1.00

Fruitliquid Saw Palmetto [2]

Astringent, antioxidant

Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract

0.10

Fragrance

Parfum

0.15

Phone : +31 475 20 60 70 • service@azeco-cosmeceuticals.com • www.azeco-cosmeceuticals.com

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Suppliers : [1] Evonik [2] Croda Oleochemicals [3] Matrìca [4] Clariant / Nipa Preservatives

Shampoo Specifications: Appearance

Viscous liquid

Colour Odour

white

characteristic

pH

6 - 6.5

Typical:

5,2

Brookfield Viscosity (S4, 20 rpm, 25°C)

2000 – 3000 mPas

Typical:

2,500 mPas

Manufacturing instructions: 1.

Prepare Phase A by combining the ingredients. Begin to heat the solution to 80ºC. Heat Part B to 80ºC, then add Part B to Part A and stir until complete dispersion.

2. 3. 4. 5.

Adjust the pH with the sodium hydroxide water solution.

Add Part D ingredients to the Part A, B and C mixture one at a time with continued stirring.

Cool batch slowly while continuing to stir, add ingredients of Part E.

INCI list: Ingredients: Aqua, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Azelaic Acid, Propa nediol, Tripelargonin, Glycerin, PEG-150 Distearate, Serenoa Serrulata, Pyridoxine HCL, Zinc Sulfate, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Caprylate

Shelf life: 3 years after production, 12 months after opening. Store at ambient temperature, out of direct sun light.

The standard for azelaic acid in pharma & cosmetics

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HC002 Follicle Renewal Spray Lotion It contains ingredients that inhibit DHT production and reduce the production of Alpha 5 Reductase, which is an enzyme that converts testosterone to DHT. This lotion works to reduce excess DHT on the scalp, as well as unclog blocked pores, improve blood flow in the scalp, and give hair a healthier general outlook.

INCI Name

Trade name

% by weight

Function

A

Alcohol Denat

MIXETAN 100 [1]

40.00

Solvent

Azepur99®

Azelaic Acid

5.00

Active Ingredient

Aqua (and) lecithin (and) alcohol (and) sodium hydroxide (and) tocopherol

NATIPIDE II [2]

0.55

Emulsifier

Pyridoxine

Vitamin B6

0.10

Hair conditioning and moisturizing

B PEG-8 DIMETHICONE (and) PEG-14

SILWAX WS-4 [3]

5.00

Conditioning Agent

Aqua

Water

49.10

Humectant

Zinc Sulfate

-

0.05

Astringent, antimicrobial agent

C

Parfum

Fragrance

0.20

Fragrance

Suppliers : [1] Alcoolital Srl [2] AVG [3] Siltech

Specifications: Appearance

Clear liquid

Colour Odour

From colourless to slightly yellowish

Characteristic Not applicable Not applicable

pH

Typical:

Brookfield Viscosity (S4, 20 rpm, 25°C):

Fluid Fluid

Typical:

Manufacturing instructions: 1.

Prepare Phase A by combining the ingredients, mix until homogeneous. Prepare Phase B by combining the ingredients, mix until homogeneous.

2.

3. Add the Phase B to the Phase A flushing very slowly and waiting for the final phase to be homogeneous. 4. Add all the ingredients of the phase C to the obtained Phase A+B, mixing until homogeneous.

INCI list: Ingredients: Aqua, Alcohol Denat., Azelaic Acid, Peg-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Pyridoxine, Zinc Sulfa te, Lecithin, Parfum

Shelf life: 3 years after production, 12 months after opening. Store at ambient temperature, out of direct sun light.

Phone : +31 475 20 60 70 • service@azeco-cosmeceuticals.com • www.azeco-cosmeceuticals.com

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References

Available scientific evidences for the application of Azelaic acid in hair care formulations

1)

http://www.americanhairloss.org/hair_loss_research/introduction.asp

2) D.Stamatiadis, M.C.Bulteau-Portois, I.Mowszowicz, Inhibition of 5-α-reductase activity in human skin by zinc and azelaic acid. Brit.J.Derm., 119,627,1988. 3) S. Sasmaz and O. Arican, Comparison of azelaic acid and anthralin for the therapy of patchy alopecia areata: a pilot study, Am J Clin Dermatol . 2005;6(6):403-6. 4) S.H. Yoon, et Alters, A Study for Verification of Hair Growth Effect of Azelaic Acid and Vitamin B6, Journal of the Korean Society of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeons 2008;35(5):507-513.

For more information, visit https://azeco-cosmeceuticals.com/ or call +31 475 20 60 70

The information set forth herein is furnished free of charge and based on technical dat that Azeco Cosmeceuticals BV believes to be reliable. It is intended for use by persons having technical skill, at their own risk. Because conditions of use are outside our control, Azeco Cosmeceuticals makes no warranties, expressed or implied, and assumes no liability in connection with any use of this informa tion. Nothing herein is to be taken as a license to operate under, or a recommendation to infringe any patents or patent applications.

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For technical and / or sales service contact Azeco Cosmeceuticals BV | The Netherlands service@azeco-cosmeceuticals.com

www.azeco-cosmeceuticals.com