Azeco Cosmeceuticals

2.2.3 Efficacy testing on skin with some disorders The European composition was tested in 8 patients suffering from infected closed comedones. The composition was applied on the affected two times per day for 30 days. The following visual scale was used:

Visual observation rating: 0-1 No improvement 2-3 Clearly noticeable improvement 4-6 Good improvement 7-9 Excellent improvement 10 Complete recovery

Volunteer Gender

Age

Day

Day #0 Day #5 Day #10 Day #15 Day #20 Day #25 Result #30

#1

Female

15

0

0

2

2

5

6

8

Positive

#2

Female

23

0

0

0

2

5

6

8

Positive

#3

Female

21

0

0

0

1

2

2

1

Negative

#4

Female

18

0

1

3

6

6

8

10

Positive

#5

Male

24

0

0

1

2

2

4

3

Negative

#6

Male

15

0

1

3

4

4

6

9

Positive

#7

Male

16

0

2

5

5

6

8

9

Positive

#8

Male

19

0

0

1

3

4

7

9

Positive

The results are at least promising and observed to be better than with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. The results compare to the results obtained upon treatment with clindamycin or doxycycline.

2.2.4 Azelaic acid in whitening / lightening creams Depigmentation and skin lightening products, which have been in use for ages in Asian countries where skin whiteness is a major esthetic criterion, are now also highly valued by Western populations, who expose themselves excessively to the sun and develop skin spots as a consequence (11). The allure of a pale complexion is nothing new and many doctors have been looking into this subject for some time, proposing diverse and varied recipes for eliminating all unsightly marks (freckles and liver spots were clearly targeted). Pliny the Elder (Natura- lis Historia), Dioscoride (De Universa medicina), Castore Durante (Herbario nuove), and other authors from other time periods have addressed this issue. In the 16th century, Durante proposed diverse plant-based preparations, for example herbal teas prepared from Erythreae centaurium, Chamaeleon root, powdered Gentiana verna root mixed with honey, lemon juice, to name a few (12). In sub-Saharan Africa where the practice is common, herbal teas are still being prepared from local plants (Tephrosia vogelii, Mirabilis jalapa, Phytolacca dodecandra). In Rwanda, about thirty plants are traditionally used to lighten the complexion of girls for certain ceremonies, such as marriage, for instance. The use of preparations to lighten skin tone is referred to as “voluntary depigmentation”. Depending on the African country in question, the procedure may be called “xessal” (Senegal), “tcha-tcho” (Mali), “ambi” (Gabon), “maquillage” (Congo), “kwitukuza”, which literally means “making one’s skin red” (Rwanda) (13). Illegal cosmetics or preparations, in other words ones not regulated by any drug laws or cosmetics laws, may be used to achieve the desired results. Steroids, hydroqui- none and its derivatives, kojic acid, and mercury derivatives are the most commonly used active ingredients. They are far from being harmless. Undesirable effects (hypercorticism) may be observed in subjects using dermocorticoids.

Phone : 0031475 782540 • info@azeco-cosmeceuticals.com • www.azeco-cosmeceuticals.com

17