Azeco Cosmeceuticals

Formulations

33. Question: What would be the effect of a lower dosage (3%-5%) of Azelaic acid combined with other ingredients in a skincare formulation? Answer: It can in any case give a purifying effect on skin. Not enough for a whitening effect. 34. Question: Are there any more detailed solubility data in various polar oils to share? Answer: Azelaic acid is not soluble in any polar oil. So the recommendation is to prepare a premix of Azelaic acid with glycols, glycerin, glyce ryl derivatives etc., and after add it to the oil phase. For sure, the use of polar oils is preferable to the use of unpolar in the oil phase of the emulsion. 35. Question: Question regarding an emulsion with 15% Azelaic acid: after several tests we still have problems. Either the emulsion does not solidify, or the formula is not stable in a crach test at 50°C, or the Azelaic acid clumps together after 1 day. Have you conducted tests with natural ingredients? Indeed, I wonder if my choice of emulsifiers or gelling agents of natural origin is solid. Answer: Please download the Cosmos Listed INCI names that improve the solubility of Azelaic acid via the website: azeco-cosmeceuticals.com/downloads/cosmos-listed-inci-names-improve-solubility-Azelaicacid/ 36. Question: What is the maximum pH in order to guarantee the effectiveness of Azelaic acid? 37. Question: Can Azelaic acid be solubilised using only Ethanol? What would be the recom mended proportion Azelaic acid and Ethanol in case of adding another active ingredient? Answer: Azelaic acid is soluble in ethanol but not in high percentage at room temperature: about 1g of Azelaic acid can be solubilised in 100 ml of ethanol. 38. Question: What is a good subsitute for Polysorbate-80 for COSMOS/ECOCERT products? Answer: Between 5.5 and 6.5. pH is an applicable parameter only for water based products or for o/w emulsions.

Answer: A good substitute of Polysorbate-80 for COSMOS/ECOCERT products is Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, that is COSMOS listed.

Mussenberg 1 • 6049 GZ Herten • The Netherlands

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